Collecting Vintage Bulgari: A Guide to Bvlgari Jewelry

Bulgari is the great Roman jewelry house. It was founded in Rome in 1884 by Sotirios Voulgaris, a Greek silversmith, and its shop on Via Condotti became one of the most famous jewelry addresses in the world. Vintage Bulgari from the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s, with its bold gold and bright colored stones, is among the most sought-after signed jewelry today.

What makes Bulgari jewelry recognizable

  • Bold color: sapphires, emeralds, rubies, amethysts, citrines and turquoise set together in unexpected combinations.
  • Cabochon stones: smooth, domed gems instead of faceted ones, a signature of the house's vintage style.
  • Yellow gold: heavy, rich 18-karat gold, often paired with steel, rock crystal or hardstones.
  • Roman inspiration: ancient coins, architecture and classical shapes run through the house's designs.

Famous Bulgari designs

Serpenti: the snake, made as bracelets, watches and necklaces, first appeared in the 1940s and became one of the house's best-known motifs. Tubogas: a flexible coiled gold band, used for bracelets, necklaces and watches. Monete: jewelry set with ancient coins. Sautoirs: long necklaces, often with a large pendant, typical of Bulgari in the 1970s.

Vintage Bulgari for men

Bulgari is one of the few great houses whose vintage rings suit men as well as women. Gold rings set with a single bold stone, three-stone rings and heavy gold bands are especially popular. See our vintage men's jewelry for current pieces.

How to check a Bulgari piece

  • Signature: vintage pieces are signed BVLGARI, spelled with the classical Roman V.
  • Hallmarks: Italian-made pieces usually carry Italian gold and maker's marks next to the signature.
  • Workmanship: Bulgari is known for precise stone setting and well-finished gold, front and back.
  • Buy from a specialist: copies of Bulgari designs are common, so buy from a dealer who examines and guarantees every piece.

Vintage Bulgari at Joseph Saidian & Sons

Our current Bulgari pieces include a 10.64-carat certified Colombian emerald ring, a certified Burmese cabochon sapphire and diamond bracelet, a Bulgari sautoir necklace and a turquoise and diamond cocktail ring. Browse all vintage Bulgari jewelry.

Every piece is personally examined by the Saidian family, New York jewelers since 1850, and guaranteed authentic. We are an independent dealer and are not affiliated with Bulgari. To ask about a piece, or to sell your Bulgari jewelry, call 212-752-2684 or send us a message.