Collecting Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany: A Guide to His Jewels

Jean Schlumberger (1907–1987) was born in Mulhouse, in Alsace, and began designing jewelry in Paris in the 1930s, including buttons and costume jewels for the couturier Elsa Schiaparelli. After the Second World War he opened a salon in New York, and in 1956 Tiffany & Co. invited him to join the house. His jewels there became some of the most celebrated of the 20th century.

What makes a Schlumberger piece special

• Paillonné enamel: bangles in rich, glowing enamel laid over gold foil, often crossed with gold X's or dots.
• Nature: birds, sea creatures, flowers and leaves in gold and gems. His Bird on a Rock design was used to set the famous Tiffany Yellow Diamond.
• Signature gold designs: Rope, X and Sixteen Stone pieces, still recognized today.
• Color: bold mixes of sapphires, rubies, emeralds, turquoise and diamonds.

What to check before buying

• The signature: pieces are usually signed "Schlumberger" together with "Tiffany & Co."
• The condition of the enamel: chips and later repairs affect value.
• Whether the stones are original and secure.
• Buy from a specialist dealer who stands behind the piece's authenticity.

Schlumberger at Joseph Saidian & Sons

Browse our Jean Schlumberger jewelry and vintage Tiffany & Co. in New York, personally examined and guaranteed authentic. We are an independent dealer and are not affiliated with Tiffany & Co. To ask about a piece, or to sell your Schlumberger jewelry, call 212-752-2684 or email info@saidiansons.com.

More collector's guides: Collecting David Webb, Collecting Van Cleef & Arpels and Collecting JAR.