Collecting Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels: Alhambra, Mystery Set and More

Van Cleef & Arpels began in Paris in 1896, after Estelle Arpels married Alfred Van Cleef, and opened on the Place Vendôme in 1906. More than a century later, vintage pieces from the house are among the most sought-after signed jewels in the world.

Designs collectors look for

• Mystery Set: patented in 1933, a technique in which rubies, sapphires or emeralds are set with no visible prongs.
• Alhambra: the four-leaf clover first made in 1968, in gold with mother-of-pearl, onyx, malachite, coral and other stones.
• Zip necklace: a necklace that works like a real zipper and can be worn closed or open, first made in the early 1950s.
• Animal and flower clips, textured gold jewels of the 1950s to 1970s, and diamond clip earrings.

What to check before buying

• The signature and serial number: most pieces are signed "VCA" or "Van Cleef & Arpels" with a number.
• The hallmarks: French-made gold pieces usually carry the eagle's head mark for 18-karat gold, while pieces made for the American market may carry different marks.
• The condition of hardstones such as onyx, malachite and turquoise, which can chip.
• Buy from a specialist dealer who can explain the piece's history.

Van Cleef & Arpels at Joseph Saidian & Sons

Browse our vintage Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry and Van Cleef & Arpels earrings in New York, personally examined and guaranteed authentic. We are an independent dealer and are not affiliated with Van Cleef & Arpels. To ask about a piece, or to sell your Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, call 212-752-2684 or email info@saidiansons.com.

More collector's guides: Collecting JAR and Collecting David Webb.